Philodendron is a perennial, evergreen plant in the Aroid family. The homeland of the philodendron is the South American tropics. In our climate, philodendron is used for decorative purposes and is grown in apartments, office buildings and greenhouses.
The ground part of the plant can develop in the form of a vine or shrub. With age, the stem of some species is lignified and can grow without support. In the places of internodes there are numerous aerial roots that serve to nourish and attach to the support. The measles system is branched, located superficially. Leaf shape and color varies greatly depending on the variety.
It grows very fast. from 70 cm to 1.2 meters per year. | |
It blooms very rarely. Spadix with bedspread. | |
The plant is easy to grow. | |
Perennial. |
Useful properties of philodendron
It is included in the list of plants most beneficially affecting the microclimate in closed residential and industrial premises. The vital products of philodendron contribute to the purification of air from formaldehydes and other harmful substances, have phytoncidal properties.
Plant secretions stimulate heart rate, lower blood pressure, improve mood, increase efficiency and immunity.
Care for the philodendron at home. Briefly
Temperature | The plant likes a moderately warm climate and a room temperature of no more than + 25 ° C and no lower than + 15 ° C. |
Air humidity | Negatively reacts to dry air and needs to be sprayed 1-2 times a week with warm purified water. |
Lighting | Philodendron at home feels good in bright, scattered light. Many species tolerate partial shade. |
Watering | A moderately moist soil condition without overmoistening is required. |
Priming | It must have good air exchange, drainage properties, be loose and fertile. |
Fertilizer and fertilizer | For intensive growth and a spectacular appearance of the vegetative system, fertilizing with nitrogen-containing organic or complex mineral fertilizers is carried out at least once every 2 weeks. |
Transfer | In order to provide the root system with the necessary nutritional area, young plants are transplanted 1-2 times a year, adults - once every 2-3 years. |
Breeding | The procedure is carried out as necessary. For propagation, cuttings, tops of shoots or parts of leaves obtained by pruning or forming a bush can be used. |
Growing Features | The plant does not accept constrained conditions, drafts, sudden changes in temperature, prolonged exposure to direct sunlight, dry air and excessive soil moisture. |
Care for the philodendron at home. In detail
Flowering philodendron
Not all varieties of philodendron bloom even under favorable indoor conditions, more often this occurs in greenhouses. The plant can give from 1 to 11 inflorescences. A single philodendron flower at home cannot produce offspring; pollination is required to fertilize it. The inflorescence is a cob supported by a short pedicel, framed by a cream or slightly red shade.
Philodendron flowers have no special decorative value. The reproductive organs are arranged in the following order: at the top - male, the middle part - sterile flowers, below - female. Since the activity of heterogeneous flowers in the inflorescence does not coincide in time, fertilization requires pollination by male flowers of another inflorescence that has blossomed at the right time.
For pollination, the vertical cob bends over and comes out from under the coverlet, then returns to its previous position and is completely covered by the coverlet. The formation and ripening of the fetus (juicy berry) can last up to a year. Seeds are very small and are used more often for breeding purposes.
Temperature mode
Despite its tropical origin, home philodendron feels better at moderately warm temperatures, from +20 to + 25 ° C. Overheating can adversely affect the condition of the leaves and the appearance of the plant.
In winter, the air temperature is lowered by 2-3 degrees, but not lower than + 15 ° C, so as not to provoke the development of decay processes. Only some varieties easily adapt to a temperature of + 12-13 ° C, stopping growth and development.
Spraying
Despite its unpretentiousness, philodendron requires home care, ensuring the maintenance of optimal humidity (about 70%) and a comfortable temperature. Traditional methods are used to increase humidity: spraying from a spray bottle, electric humidifiers, placing containers with water or a moist substrate near the plant. Do not keep the pot near stoves and radiators.
It is recommended 1-2 times a week to spray leaf philodendron with a fine spray or wipe them with a damp cloth. In dusty, dry leaves, air exchange is significantly impaired, so a warm shower is a vital necessity.
Lighting
Some varieties of philodendron can be grown even under artificial light and in partial shade, but to get healthy, large leaves, you need well-lit rooms without prolonged exposure to direct sunlight. Variety of varieties require more sunlight.
Watering
A moisture-loving plant needs constant maintenance of the soil in a slightly wet state, but without overflow and stagnation of water. Watering the philodendron is carried out with settled water at room temperature as the soil dries.
Spraying and watering is not carried out at low temperature and cold, hard water.
Philodendron Pot
The volume of the container should be such that the root system is located freely and does not bend. Its size at each transplant increases by 15-20%. If the soil for the flower is chosen correctly, the pot can be both plastic and ceramic.
Soil for philodendron
A drainage layer is poured to the bottom of the planting tank, and then fertile, loose, with good air exchange soil, having a neutral or slightly acidic reaction. It is best to buy a finished substrate, but you can prepare the mixture yourself:
- 2 parts of peat;
- 2 parts of turf land;
- 1 part humus;
- 1/2 part of river sand.
To improve water metabolism, a little bark, moss or charcoal is added.
Fertilizer and fertilizer
In the spring-summer period, top-dressing of the philodendron is carried out at least 2 times a month with complex fertilizer for deciduous flowers in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. If the plant has a healthy appearance and a very intense color, the concentration can be reduced to prevent oversaturation.
You can improve nutrition by adding a little fertile soil to the pot without transplanting the plant.
Philodendron transplant
Perennial philodendron at home is growing quite intensively, adding annually up to 60cm gain in the aerial parts. Together with it, the root system develops, which completely fills the volume of the pot.
For normal growth and development adult plants are transplanted once every 2-3 years, young ones - as they grow. A signal to carry out work can serve as his condition. The best time for a transplant is February - March.
Pruning
To create a dense, branched bush of the desired shape, pruning is performed. In order not to harm the plant, certain rules must be observed:
- pruning is performed in early spring with a sharp disinfected knife;
- place the cut sprinkled with crushed coal;
- the stem is cut at a height of at least 40 cm in the area between the nodes;
- healthy aerial roots are not recommended.
Pruning of dried leaves and aerial roots of the philodendron, as well as injured parts, is carried out as it is detected.
Rest period
Natural growth retardation usually occurs in December, although the philodendron does not have a pronounced resting period. In the autumn period, the amount of watering and top dressing is gradually reduced, and from December to the last decade of January, they do not feed at all.
Growing philodendron from seeds
This is a long process, since only by the end of the first year from the small seeds will the first true leaves appear:
- Seeds are sown as rarely as possible in loose, moist soil to a depth of 0.5 cm.
- The container is covered with a transparent film or glass and transferred to a bright, warm place.
- Before seedlings appear, aerate the crops daily and monitor the soil moisture.
- Shoots will appear in 6-8 weeks.
- The grown seedlings are planted in separate pots.
Philodendron Reproduction
The easiest and fastest way to propagate a flower is by vegetative organs:
Propagation by cuttings
Cuttings are cut from the tops of the philodendron stem, lateral shoots or the main stem, leaving two internodes. Planted in small pots, pre-soaked for 10-12 hours in a solution of the stimulator of root formation (Epin). Sprinkle with moist soil a layer of 1.0-1.5 cm and using a transparent bag arrange a greenhouse. The capacity is kept in a bright, warm place for 3-4 weeks, periodically watering and ventilating. When the cuttings start growing, they are transplanted into looser pots.
Until the roots are formed, the cuttings can be kept in water, but there is a danger of their decay.
Propagation by layering
The internodes of the shoot are pinned in several places with studs to a new, moist soil and taken care of for 1-2 months. After rooting, the shoot is cut into pieces and planted in separate pots.
Diseases and Pests
Philodendron stops growing if too heavy soil is compacted, depleted, stagnation of water often forms, irrigation is done with hard water, and the room temperature is low. These and other emerging problems are immediately reflected in the external state of the plant:
- Philodendron leaves turn yellow with excess moisture and malnutrition. Yellowing only the lower leaves is a natural biological process of aging.
- The top of the philodendron is small and pale. with a lack of lighting.
- Drops on the tips of the leaves They are a signal to high humidity in the room, they remove excess water, but they are not a sign of illness.
- The lower leaves of the philodendron fall, and the upper become small in low light. If at first they wilt and turn brown, this is most likely the effect of too high a temperature.
- The tips of the leaves are covered with brown spots. as a result of hypothermia and increased soil moisture.
- The stalk of philodendron rots with rot disease, which can be caused by low air temperature and excessive watering.
- Philodendron leaves fade with a lack of mineral nutrition, light. Blanching may also occur with prolonged exposure to direct sunlight.
- Brown spots on the leaves - This is most often sunburn.
- The leaves of the philodendron drooped when there is a lack of moisture.
The main pests:
- Aphid. Its colonies settle on the plant and feed on sap. As a result, the plant stops growing.
- Scaffolds. The leaves and stems are covered with convex brown tubercles, which can turn into a continuous bark.
- Thrips. The secretions of these insects cover the leaves with a sticky coating.
- Spider mite. A thin web appears in the axils of the leaves.
To control pests, soap solution is used, and in difficult cases, chemical preparations (Actelik, Aktara). When a spider mite appears, increase humidity and increase temperature.
Types of Philodendron
More than 300 varieties of philodendron are known. Most often, only a part of them is grown indoors. They significantly differ in the shape of the leaves, color and structure of the bush:
Climbing or Clinging Philodendron
Climbing philodendron. A photoIt is a variety of ivy philodendron. The name received for the long, thin shoots, equipped with numerous subordinate roots, which develop from the axils of the leaves. With their help, the escape creeps or climbs along the support at a distance of 4-6 m.
The color of the leaves is dark green or green with light inclusions, the structure is dense, leathery, the shape is heart-shaped, pointed at the apex. Leaves reach a length of 15 cm, a width of 10 cm. Unpretentious, easy to care for, resistant to adverse growing conditions. Rumor has dubbed Philodendron scandens a husbandman.
Philodendron blushing
The shoot length of an adult plant can reach 1.5-1.8 m, it does not branch, the creeper creeps using aerial roots. The leaves are large, up to 25 cm long, ovate, oblong, solid, dark green in color with a pinkish edge. The leaf is attached to the stem with a long stalk. Young shoots and leaves are reddish-brown in color, with age they acquire a greener color, and the lower part of the stem turns into a vertical, lignified trunk. The plant feels good in the shade.
Philodendron cello or bicopus or double-pinnate
Philodendron Sello. A photoIt differs in a tree-like stem covered with scaly recesses of a light color from the petioles of fallen leaves. The stem is erect, can reach a height of 2 meters or more. The leaf plate is wide (40-80 cm), ovoid, divided into cirrus lobes. Depending on the conditions of detention, the color is from light to dark green.
Spear Philodendron
The stem is a flexible vine, requiring constant support. The sheet plates are solid, shaped like arrowheads. The length of the leaves can reach 40 cm, the color is light green with a grayish tint.
Philodendron golden black or Andre
This is a powerful vine with long, up to 60 cm, dark green leaves with white veins. A dense copper tint gives the plant its original look. The view is suitable for decorating rooms with insufficiently bright lighting.
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