When the Chamorora Turusi variety first appeared on the Russian market, sellers claimed that it was bred in Japan. Among the giants, this strawberry stands out for its magnificent taste and bright aroma.
Description and characteristics of the variety
Strawberry Chamora Turusi - a variety of amateur selection. Its main advantage is its amazing taste combined with the enormous size of berries. Under favorable conditions, the weight of individual strawberries is 110 grams. By the end of the harvest, the fruits are noticeably smaller, but for caring owners, even a trifle reaches 45 grams.
The first berries are comb, often similar to hearts flattened from the sides. It is impossible to resist such beauty.
The berry fruit bears without renewal for 6 years, but the maximum yield is in the 2-3rd year. Bushes are tall and lush, with a diameter of up to 55 cm and a height of about 30 cm, with shiny large leaves. Mustaches are many, rooted easily. Plants winter in the snow without additional shelter.
Bushes of the Chamorora Turusi variety are tall and powerful, with large shiny leaves
A variety of medium-late ripening, peak fruiting - at the end of June (in the northern regions - in August). The duration of the harvest is up to 4 weeks. The berries have a rich red color and a sweet taste with a pronounced strawberry aroma.
The first berries of the Chamorora Turusi variety have a characteristic comb shape and huge size
Peduncles are located at leaf level. During ripening, the berries lie on their own weight, but lie mainly on the leaves, and not on the mulch between the bushes.
The plants do not tolerate heat with a lack of moisture, drip irrigation is desirable. The variety is not affected by powdery mildew. Resistance to fungal diseases and strawberry mites is low, comprehensive protection is needed.
Video: Chamora Turusi ripens
Propagation and planting of strawberries Chamorora Turusi
Ideally, of course, to get outlets you need to choose a powerful, productive bush. But the strength of the plant will be shown only in the second year of fruiting.
Selection of planting material
You can start breeding this variety in June, before the bushes bloom for the first time. The disadvantage of this option is that a large bed will have to be allocated for the mother liquor. After all, it is not known which of the young outlets is better.
The distance between the seedlings in a row on the distribution bed is 80 cm. A dozen seedlings will eventually take 1.2 m in width and 5.5 m in length. The bed must be high, you can without planking. The direction of the rows is preferably from east to west.
If the bushes are planted at the end of August and later, then there will be no harvest in the first year, a maximum of three or four small berries from the bush with a regular mustache. Therefore, the first peduncle must be removed, it is better to just pinch off the upper part with the buds.
It happens that the first mustache appears before the flower arrows. They are cut out completely. Leave those that will only begin to grow after removal of the peduncle.
If the bush didn’t give the flower stalk before the end of June - away from the garden!
Chamora Turusi saplings may not bloom if they took a fourth rosette on the antennae or the bush was sick for reproduction. In both cases there will be no normal offspring from him.
From each antennae you need to take only one, the first outlet. It is better to root in the ground under the bushes, without pots and glasses. From the bush receive from 8 to 15 outlets, which are distributed evenly around the bush.
Outlets are distributed evenly around the uterine bush and are rooted in the ground
Turusa does not like the sunshine of Chamor, therefore, plants need shading. The ideal solution is a non-woven covering material (white, high density) stretched over a frame or arcs made of thin plastic reinforcement. From the ends, such a greenhouse should be constantly open.
Video: how to root a strawberry mustache
When to plant grown outlets
Traditionally, August is considered the best time to plant strawberry “kids”. But you need to take into account climatic conditions. In regions where winter begins early, and in spring the soil warms up slowly, it is better to postpone planting until spring.
In areas with a warm climate, November plantings are practiced in areas protected from the wind. Of course, seedlings do not have time to take root before the onset of frost. However, such bushes, transplanted already in a dormant state, are much larger than those planted in August, and the root neck is one and a half to two times thicker. True, in the spring they will need to help: shade a little from the sun, and as soon as they start to grow, cut the leaves.
When spring pruning on the bushes leave one fully developed leaf
You need to cut off the grown bushes from the mother bush in the first half of August so that young plants more actively form their own roots and do not deplete the mother bush.
Planting strawberries in the garden
The Chamorora Turusi variety is sensitive to both a deficiency and an excess of moisture. Water should be watered with a temperature of at least 15 ° C.
In the spring, before the first wetting, you need to remove the old mulch.
If the soil on the site is heavy, loam or dense chernozem, then make a high bed of a meter wide. The soil is abundantly supplemented with organic matter. For each meter they take 12-15 liters of compost, humus leaf or sweet (not fresh) coniferous sawdust.
On a site with heavy soil, strawberries are planted on high beds with a drainage layer of branches
If the soil is sandy, then Chamora Turusi is planted on a flat surface. No slopes and raised beds. A place for autumn planting is prepared at least a month in advance.
- The site is marked out, dividing into strips 50 cm wide. One strip is a row, the next is aisle.
- Compost is added to the rows in a mixture with chernozem or turf soil in a bucket of 2 meters in a row.
- After digging, water the soil and let it settle.
- Before planting a bed weed with a chopper.
- Strawberry bushes are planted at a distance of 50 cm from each other.
When planting strawberries, you need to ensure that the growth point is at the level of the soil surface
- Mulch the beds and aisles with straw, coniferous shavings or half-ripe sawdust. Non-woven black material is suitable for paths, but not under bushes.
Strawberry plantations are mulched with natural materials: straw, coniferous shavings or half-ripe sawdust
During spring planting, all old leaves are cut on seedlings. This will help the bushes to take root faster. On seedlings of summer and September planting, leave up to three healthy leaves (at the top). If the seedlings are planted late in the fall, leave one apical leaf.
Pest and Disease Control
In order not to use chemicals, it is possible to protect strawberry plantings from diseases and pests with self-made preparations.
Protection against strawberry and raspberry weevil
Strawberry-raspberry weevil damages buds and ovaries. The insect itself is small, 2-3 mm in length, but with a strong infection destroys up to 70% of the crop.
Damaged weevil berries grow small and clumsy
Chamora Turusi's strawberries are not resistant to this pest. But there are completely harmless ways to keep the weevil out of the beds. Apply them comprehensively, in each phase of strawberry growth.
- After transplanting seedlings, pour iodine solution around the bushes, half a teaspoon of alcohol tincture on a bucket. Repeat after 10 days, and then in the spring (immediately after the snow melts) and in the fall every year.
- A liter jar of pine needles, for example, from a Christmas tree, boil in 10 liters of water, insist for a day. Add 2-3 grams of boric acid to the filtered infusion and water the bushes and soil near them from a watering can in the spring, as soon as the bushes start growing.
- During the day, insist on crushed garlic in a liter of water, then strain. Spray plants and soil when peduncles appear.
- Boil a liter jar of onion husks for half an hour in 3 liters of water, insist from 12 hours to a day. Dilute every liter in a bucket of water. Water the soil from a watering can after flowering.
- Water the soil with a daily infusion of wood ash (a glass of 250 ml per bucket of boiling water) during the period of filling and ripening of berries. Consumption - 1 liter per meter row.
- After harvesting, cut off all diseased and damaged leaves, continue to pick off the mustache and water the bushes and soil abundantly with dandelion infusion. To prepare, finely chop half a bucket of leaves and roots, add water to room temperature to the top and leave for 4-5 hours, then strain.
It is necessary to apply protective measures throughout the season, at each phase of strawberry growth. The above recipes will not only protect the bed from aphids, ticks and weevils, but also increase the resistance of plants to diseases and weather surprises.
Video: how to deal with weevil
Disease prevention
The Chamorora Turusi variety has high resistance to powdery mildew, but in wet weather the plants are susceptible to spotting, root and fruit rot. To avoid infection, apply the following measures:
- Strawberry beds are made in the place where garlic, radishes or lettuce were planted before, and even better, before planting a berry, sow annual siderata (mustard, fatselia).
- They make sure that the bushes do not touch the leaves with each other.
- Early in the spring, after pruning and removing old leaves, loosen the soil around the bushes (not under them).
- Phytosporin biofungicide for prevention is used three times a season: before flowering, on green ovaries and in September.
Reviews about the Chamorora Turusi variety
Compared to Gigantella Maxi, Chamora berries ripen better, have better transportability (density). When adding organic matter and ash (mineral water) during the preparation of beds, mulching and moderate watering, to grow a 100 g berry, and the total yield from a two-year-old healthy bush of more than 1 kg is the usual norm. The main thing is a sparse landing, at least 35-40 cm between the bushes, per square meter - no more than four bushes. When trading such berries in the market, a crowd of surprised people always gathers. I often joke, they say, this is not strawberries, but apples, only in appearance just like strawberries, and to taste - strawberries, but apples. Chamor was always invariably sold at the highest price. In my conditions, there was a slight damage by spotting, and with increased humidity - gray rot. This served as my decision to replace Chamoru Turusi with Maxim and Kiss Nelis.
Club Nika//forum.vinograd.info/showpost.php?p=149314&postcount=2
Landing the first year. Half survived the winter. Growth at the Gigantella level, productivity so far too. Perhaps the fact is partially that the seedlings were in narrow cups. In the fall there was a choice - to spread the root, or plant as it is. I went for the second option. He planted them in raised beds with a flange made of flat slate 20 cm high. They did not save them from lizards, they liked Chamor. The berry does not rot, however, lies on a mulch from a cut of grass.
Andy//forum.vinograd.info/showpost.php?p=155617&postcount=5
My reviews about Chamor are the most flattering. There was almost no rot. Roasting of berries was observed, but not on a massive scale, but on those beds that grow in vineyards, there were no such problems at all. On the advice of members of the forum, on open beds left rows of dill for shade. By the way, all beds were prepared at the end of October, seedlings were few, so everything that was used, including weak frosts, was used. After a couple of weeks, frost hit, thought she would not winter, but she tried: not only survived, but also turned into luxurious bushes with large berries, which are still pleasing to the eye and arouse the interest of neighbors. The refrigerator is stored for three days without significant changes. I decided to expand the planting of this variety, fortunately - there is enough mustache this time.
Nadezhda Nikolayevna//forum.vinograd.info/showpost.php?p=157259&postcount=7
Gigantella is not at all an analogue of Chamor. I had 4 Gigantella from various sources. I have long abandoned them in favor of Chamor. Chamor and Gigantella have several differences. Often, under the guise of Chamor, they sell to the Gigantella in the markets. When buying outlets, select some of the most powerful and carefully look at the bottom of the leaf petioles at their base. The Gigantella has a couple of opposite tiny underdeveloped leaves. Chamor's sockets will not have them until the horns are laid. Only after this, on a young bush near the leaves, this symptom appears. Gigantella with autumn planting in the spring will give a full crop. Chamor will yield a very modest harvest. And only in the second year this variety will be fully revealed. I did not see 5-lobed leaves in Gigantella. In Chamora, under optimal conditions, 4 and 5 lobed leaves are found, if not on each, then on the second or third bush for sure. For me, this is an indicator that I have created the best conditions for this variety and can count on the excellent return of the bushes. Under the same conditions, in the Gigantella, by the third harvest, the berry is much smaller. In Chamora, between the second and third harvest, the size of the berries does not change much. In my conditions, Gigantella absolutely does not tolerate soil salinization, like most varieties: strong chlorosis, marginal browning of leaves, shredding and ugliness of berries are manifested. Weakened bushes cling to all conceivable diseases, wither and die within 1-2 years. Chamora under the same conditions at the peak of the crop produces reddening of the edges of old leaves and marginal browning of individual leaves is rarely observed. This is how these two varieties show their differences in my specific soil conditions. Chamor's mustache gives enough for breeding, but, in my opinion, much less than the Gigantella.
Nikola//www.sadiba.com.ua/forum/showpost.php?s=06f15317e7c5d5fa178da63a2def109d&p=909956&postcount=5
I have been growing Chamoru for many years. I like it to taste and the size of berries, too. Beautiful stupid conic form of berries in her. The berries do not really grow small, for the first two years, for sure. And then, if you do not follow the mustache, the plantation becomes very thick and the berry becomes smaller. The mustache variety gives a lot, it’s still that labor to remove them)) I prefer to plant them every three years. There is one peculiarity of the variety: during autumn planting, you will not wait for the harvest in spring, but only for the next spring.
Ewa//www.sadiba.com.ua/forum/showpost.php?s=06f15317e7c5d5fa178da63a2def109d&p=997338&postcount=16
To start on this site this variety is only for those who are willing to devote enough time and effort to strawberries. But the effort will pay off by harvesting large, sweet, fragrant berries.
